Funky rocks ahead!

The idea of getting up for sunrise on Torres del Paine was short lived as more sleep was definitley required. Was late for breakfast though and even more unpopular becasue I had forgotten my yellow slip of paper, a ticket to all meals.  It was tasty none the less!

Bag packed for the day I set off towards the start of the path, past the hotel where the horse tour was getting ready to leave and I could see groups of people further up along the moraine ahead.  There was cloud shrouding the peaks of the Torres, I really hoped that this would clear by the time I got to the look out.  Up ahead there were lone walkers just like me, maybe I could befriend one of them if our paths crossed.  The path wiggled up the lose moraine at the bottom of the valley.  I caught up with and over took a walker, who did the same to me when I stopped for a drink. However, I caught up again just as the group of horses went past, the leader almost galloping up the hill, kicking up rocks and dust, very uncalled for!  The girl ahead of me stopped under a tree for some needed shade, I decided to go for it and strike up a conversation, I knew she spoke english as I'd heard her mutter 'whats the rush' as the horses went past.  The usual starter conversation went as follows...

Me: Hello
Other girl: Hello
Me: Where are you from?
Other girl: Maine (America)
Me: How long are you here for?
Other girl: Oh, just a couple of days.
Me: Me too, I have to get back to Punta Arenas to go on a ship.
Other girl: Really? Same here.
Me: Are you on the R/V Melville?
Other girl: Yes! How weird!
Me: I'm Helen
Other girl: I'm Rebecca

So not only had I found a fellow walking companion, I also met someone who was going to be on the ship! What a coincidence in such a vast place.  This made me very happy, so we walked along discussing what it was eachother were doing.  Rebecca is the Director of Education for Bigelow Marine Laboratory, Maine, organising programmes for 'high school' kids to get them interested in marine science.  My supervisor had already told me she would be on the cruise, so it was nice to meet her in person.  Rebecca was going to be writing a blog during the cruise about the science and life on board ship combined with a website.

We walked along the path, which had now levelled out and made walking more comfortable in the heat of the morning sun.  We passed many people going the other way - big commitment to doing an 8 hour walk before lunch! Rebecca gave some background information on Barney and some of the other scientists we would be joining in Punta Arenas.  I introduced the snow catcher. Across the river we stopped at the mid-way refugio where the horses that overtook us earlier were tethered in the sparse shade.  The rest was taken up by very closely pitched tents.  Christmas decorations hung up indoors caught the sunlight and reminded me it was still the 'festive season' although it felt a long time ago to me!

The next section was an easy flat section, gave us a chance to take in the scenery up ahead of snow covered mountains.  The rocks either side of the valley had very distinct bedding planes, some flat others bent up and wiggly.  At one point in time a granite batholith intruded into the area, the sills and dykes were very obvious as ridges above the original rock.  It still amazed me that there were so many people in such a remote area, the closest comparison I can think of is Ben Nevis or the Lake District in the summer.  Part of me wished it was more off the beaten track.  This still did not detract from what an amazing place it was.
We reached the bottom of the steep section ’45 minutes to the top’ and decided that lunch would be our reward once we had got there.  A few minutes after we started the long plod up the side of the mountain, who should appear but the Americans I had befriended yesterday! Having already been up to the lookout they were on their leisurely way down.  They were very pleased to learn that my walking companion was also going to be on the cruise. Wishing us a cloud free viewing at the top they continued down and we resumed the plod up.
I found myself feeling quite fit compared to some others who were making the journey up too.  Although getting stuck behind an overweight, slow and panting guy is not amusing particularly when there are few overtaking places. Made a change to me feeling very unfit when walking with Heather!! The guide called it a steep scramble up, I had prepared myself for something similar to that I encountered near Bariloche, but it was much better. Could see people traversing across the boulder scree further up, led by the ever present red dots!  The top was getting closer and I was hungry.
A short clamber over some big boulders that circled the lip of the corrie brought the Torres del Paine into full view.  What a fantastic view.  The Torres reached up nearly 3000m into the clear blue sky and wispy white clouds lingered around the top of Torre Central for a while, before being blown away by the winds, revealing the picture postcard view.  Ice and snow at the base of the Torres glistened in the sun and narrow waterfalls fell into the pale turquoise meltwater lake below. I was happy that the weather was so perfect.
Up here the wind was biting, the layers came out and we went in search of a sheltered boulder to have lunch under.  The surrounding scenery made my avocado, tomato and cheese sandwich all the more enjoyable.  We sat for nearly an hour taking in the atmosphere.  The wind got the better of us though, so after the necessary photographs, including llama, we reluctantly headed back down the path.  We timed it very well; looking back the clouds had already started to shroud the peaks from view.
We stopped at the mid-way refugio for a well earned cup of tea and some nibbles and still made it back to the hostel in time for a shower before dinner.  Joined the Americans for dinner, although this seemed to cause problems for the staff who would not let us choose a table big enough for us all.  Eventually the message got through to them that we wanted to sit together! Another tasty dinner.  The rest of the evening was spent trying to obtain internet from the hotel again.