Introducing the R/V Melville

The day started well with a wide range of food for breakfast including three types of cake and several types of cheese.  Sadly I did not have enough time to sample all of these delicacies.  I had very little time to pack up all my stuff and struggle downstairs with it, only to find that everyone, except Rebecca, had already left in a taxi.  A lengthy check-out later it was time to lug my bags down to the port, let’s just say the sensible people took taxis and Rebecca and I had aching arms.  The R/V Melville was moored out in the bay, there was no space for her yet on the pier, so we had to wait for the little tender to come and pick us up.  It took several trips for all of us to get on board, the wind reminding those of us still stood on the dock that the summer down here is not so sunny and warm.

The choppy waters made for a bumpy and slightly damp ride out to the Melville and the bags were distinctly not dry by the time we arrived.  Getting on board was entertaining having to climb up the ladder and get the timing just right to avoid inconvenient incidents.  Thankfully all bags and people got on deck without mishap.  It was good to be back on a ship again, although I was feeling a little outnumbered (by Americans) and daunted by all the science ahead, the next few weeks were looking promising.

By good fortune my boxes were already on board and waiting for me to unpack them.  The main lab seemed huge and spacious and my little bench to one side seemed very small.  I unpacked most of my stuff and started to set up, knowing that it would probably all need rearranging before we set off.  The snow catcher box was of great interest seeing as it was the biggest and heaviest (probably) on board and no one had ever worked with it before.  There was also a question of how we were going to deploy it but that could be sorted out at a later date once everything else was in place. 

Unfortunately the Bigelow boxes were still loitering in Santiago due to customs and weight issues.  This obviously was very frustrating for the Bigelow guys since most of their equipment was not on the ship.  The agent was not being very helpful either.  The next few days for them were spent frantically e-mailing the agent to get the boxes to the ship on time. 

I spent the next few days trying to locate a cable to connect my microscope camera to the computer via an image box. Typically this was the one cable that was difficult to obtain and made even more difficult by the language barrier.  Ah well, I would just have to cope.  Meanwhile I set about dismantling a couple of USB cables to try and make one from scratch, no prizes for guessing that this did not work either.

We were moored up to the dockside for a couple of days before departure, which made coming back from an evening on the town easier.  However, the increased wind speed made the journey along the dock an adventure when we were popping on and off the ship during the day. 

Finally the Bigelow equipment turned up and the ship was a hive of activity.  I wrote many many post cards, hoping they would all reach the UK before me!  So, after a tasty dinner and final evening drinks it was time to say goodbye to land.

To the 'most austral city on earth'

Drunken German singing at silly o'clock in the morning did not allow for a good nights sleep! So late for breakfast again.  Packed up my stuff and went in search of Rebecca. We had a few hours to kill before the mini-bus transfer to the coach drop off point so we wandered towards the hotel in search of something to do.  A signpost indicated a 2 hour ‘educational’ walk off into the shrubbery, so lacking anything else to waste time we followed this.  There were little wooden posts with numbers on every so often, though what they were marking we could not work out, not sure what they really understood what educational means.  There was also a contemplation corner, also unfinished and the path led to a fence so a complete lack of corners, it was very peaceful though.  This walk killed an hour or so, very un-educational really!

Eventually it was time to get on the first of 3 buses for the day.  Mini-bus was very full, was slightly concerned that we would miss our connecting buses, but it all worked out in the end.  For some reason, three others and I got to go in a people carrier back to Puerto Natales instead of in the coach.  I hoped this would be more comfortable, but it still felt like the vehicle would shake itself apart on the gravel road.  The driver also looked as though he had been awake for a very long time.  We caught a glimpse of flamingos standing on the shores of a lake, difficult to photograph though, blurry pink blobs was my best shot.  Scenery remained impressive for a long time, was sad to be leaving the mountains behind again.  Would love to go back and explore this area again, properly, where the tourists aren’t.

Found Rebecca again in Puerto Natales and we went in search of a cup of tea and postcards.  Although the postcard selection was good, the tea service was slow, so burnt tongues were the order of the day since we had less than five minutes to get to the bus station. I think I slept most of the way down to Punta Arenas.  It was time to get my science head ready to go.

Found my way to the hotel where everyone was booked in for the night, checked in, then went in search of the hostel and my heavy bags.  Had to wait around for a while for the owner to turn up, my bags were stored in their house rather than the hostel part.  I considered getting a taxi to the hotel from the hostel however I struggled along with both bags whilst getting some odd looks from everyone else.  This is when I wish I had a bag with wheels and slightly less weight in my bag.  Made it to the hotel in one piece and dragged my stuff upstairs.  There was a group of people sitting in the foyer, speaking English, so I decided to see if they were headed for the Melville too, which they were.  I met the principal scientist, Barney, and the rest of the Bigelow crew. They were heading out for dinner very soon, so I got the destination from them before I went to wash Torres del Paine and bus dust off me.  Rebecca also turned up at the hotel, but was quicker than me and left with the rest of the group before I had emerged.

After several tries at the desk I got directions to the restaurant ‘La Luna’ and wandered down towards the waterfront, past many dogs out for their evening stroll minus owners.  After doing the usual subtle glance around a restaurant without sighting anyone I knew, I was worried I’d missed everyone, but at shout from the upstairs section I went to join them.  Luckily talking science was not allowed at the dinner table because the cruise had not officially started, my brain was not ready to cope with that.  After a tasty meal and some drinks we headed back to the hotel.  It was going to be an early morning start, rubbish, I was hoping for a lie-in!

Funky rocks ahead!

The idea of getting up for sunrise on Torres del Paine was short lived as more sleep was definitley required. Was late for breakfast though and even more unpopular becasue I had forgotten my yellow slip of paper, a ticket to all meals.  It was tasty none the less!

Bag packed for the day I set off towards the start of the path, past the hotel where the horse tour was getting ready to leave and I could see groups of people further up along the moraine ahead.  There was cloud shrouding the peaks of the Torres, I really hoped that this would clear by the time I got to the look out.  Up ahead there were lone walkers just like me, maybe I could befriend one of them if our paths crossed.  The path wiggled up the lose moraine at the bottom of the valley.  I caught up with and over took a walker, who did the same to me when I stopped for a drink. However, I caught up again just as the group of horses went past, the leader almost galloping up the hill, kicking up rocks and dust, very uncalled for!  The girl ahead of me stopped under a tree for some needed shade, I decided to go for it and strike up a conversation, I knew she spoke english as I'd heard her mutter 'whats the rush' as the horses went past.  The usual starter conversation went as follows...

Me: Hello
Other girl: Hello
Me: Where are you from?
Other girl: Maine (America)
Me: How long are you here for?
Other girl: Oh, just a couple of days.
Me: Me too, I have to get back to Punta Arenas to go on a ship.
Other girl: Really? Same here.
Me: Are you on the R/V Melville?
Other girl: Yes! How weird!
Me: I'm Helen
Other girl: I'm Rebecca

So not only had I found a fellow walking companion, I also met someone who was going to be on the ship! What a coincidence in such a vast place.  This made me very happy, so we walked along discussing what it was eachother were doing.  Rebecca is the Director of Education for Bigelow Marine Laboratory, Maine, organising programmes for 'high school' kids to get them interested in marine science.  My supervisor had already told me she would be on the cruise, so it was nice to meet her in person.  Rebecca was going to be writing a blog during the cruise about the science and life on board ship combined with a website.

We walked along the path, which had now levelled out and made walking more comfortable in the heat of the morning sun.  We passed many people going the other way - big commitment to doing an 8 hour walk before lunch! Rebecca gave some background information on Barney and some of the other scientists we would be joining in Punta Arenas.  I introduced the snow catcher. Across the river we stopped at the mid-way refugio where the horses that overtook us earlier were tethered in the sparse shade.  The rest was taken up by very closely pitched tents.  Christmas decorations hung up indoors caught the sunlight and reminded me it was still the 'festive season' although it felt a long time ago to me!

The next section was an easy flat section, gave us a chance to take in the scenery up ahead of snow covered mountains.  The rocks either side of the valley had very distinct bedding planes, some flat others bent up and wiggly.  At one point in time a granite batholith intruded into the area, the sills and dykes were very obvious as ridges above the original rock.  It still amazed me that there were so many people in such a remote area, the closest comparison I can think of is Ben Nevis or the Lake District in the summer.  Part of me wished it was more off the beaten track.  This still did not detract from what an amazing place it was.
We reached the bottom of the steep section ’45 minutes to the top’ and decided that lunch would be our reward once we had got there.  A few minutes after we started the long plod up the side of the mountain, who should appear but the Americans I had befriended yesterday! Having already been up to the lookout they were on their leisurely way down.  They were very pleased to learn that my walking companion was also going to be on the cruise. Wishing us a cloud free viewing at the top they continued down and we resumed the plod up.
I found myself feeling quite fit compared to some others who were making the journey up too.  Although getting stuck behind an overweight, slow and panting guy is not amusing particularly when there are few overtaking places. Made a change to me feeling very unfit when walking with Heather!! The guide called it a steep scramble up, I had prepared myself for something similar to that I encountered near Bariloche, but it was much better. Could see people traversing across the boulder scree further up, led by the ever present red dots!  The top was getting closer and I was hungry.
A short clamber over some big boulders that circled the lip of the corrie brought the Torres del Paine into full view.  What a fantastic view.  The Torres reached up nearly 3000m into the clear blue sky and wispy white clouds lingered around the top of Torre Central for a while, before being blown away by the winds, revealing the picture postcard view.  Ice and snow at the base of the Torres glistened in the sun and narrow waterfalls fell into the pale turquoise meltwater lake below. I was happy that the weather was so perfect.
Up here the wind was biting, the layers came out and we went in search of a sheltered boulder to have lunch under.  The surrounding scenery made my avocado, tomato and cheese sandwich all the more enjoyable.  We sat for nearly an hour taking in the atmosphere.  The wind got the better of us though, so after the necessary photographs, including llama, we reluctantly headed back down the path.  We timed it very well; looking back the clouds had already started to shroud the peaks from view.
We stopped at the mid-way refugio for a well earned cup of tea and some nibbles and still made it back to the hostel in time for a shower before dinner.  Joined the Americans for dinner, although this seemed to cause problems for the staff who would not let us choose a table big enough for us all.  Eventually the message got through to them that we wanted to sit together! Another tasty dinner.  The rest of the evening was spent trying to obtain internet from the hotel again.

To Torres del Paine

Bleary eyed, I managed to get up, pack all my stuff and have breakfast in time to leave for the bus.  It was going to be another long day of travelling, but it was exciting to be going somewhere everyone told me not to miss out on even if just for two days!

Punta Arenas to Puerto Natales was fairly uninteresting out of the window and I must have slept becasue I don't remember much of the journey except that the landscape was flatter than I expected.  At the bus station in Puerto Natales I tried to find out the location of the onward bus into the park, more difficult than you'd think! I resorted to listening for english speaking people and asking them.  I encountered a group of four American backpackers of mature years who were also on the hunt for the bus station and walked with them.  They seemed friendly, but I wasn't sure if I was an annoying hanger on or not.  I told them a little bit about what I was going to do on the cruise and they seemed genuinely interested in that, so win there.  Bus station discovered, I set out to find some food for the next journey and also a chemist, my bites were ITCHY and I wanted some antihistamine.  After going round in a circle, I encountered the Americans again who were in search of a cash machine and I tagged along with them again.  More questions about what I did and one guy in particular showed interest becasue he thought about studying oceanography at uni, but did medicine instead.  If I remember correctly his daughter was involved in marine science too.  Sucessful chemist and cash machine trip, after going down to the waterfront, it was windy!  I was invited to have lunch with them, which was very kind.  Went for avocado related food again, and some chips, warming food on such a blustery day.  I bid farewell to the Americans for the time being and went in search of an avocado of my own.  I had 20 minutes to locate supermarket, but avocado and then leave.  The longest time I spent was in the queue at the supermarket, they run on a completely different time schedule and even then I was sent away becasue I had failed to get my veg weighed, argh.  A quick walk interspersed with jogging got me to the bus on time, guess what, it left late. 

As we journeyed on, the clouds disappeared and the sun heated up the bus, which was not conducive to staying awake. The frustrating thing was this was where the scenery got interesting.  Pointy mountains started to appear on the horizon and the surrounding landscape was a glaciologists heaven! I was constantly trying to work out the porcesses that had gone into forming this region (when I wasn't asleep).  We stopped at what I can only describe as a service station, complete with overpriced merchandise and I bought some peanuts and raisins, exciting.  The 'road' now became a gravel track and the bus felt as though it would shake itself to pieces.  The Torres del Paine came into view, the tops shrouded in cloud, an amazing sight none the less.  I really wanted someone to share this moment with, it felt very strange. The bus bumped its way along towards the drop off point.  Caught a glimpse of a condor out of the window. 

Paid for the entry to the park and then contemplated method of getting to the hostel.  By this time it was quite warm and very sunny.  I again found some english speaking people to tag along with.  We had missed the minibus to the hostel and there was no telling when the next one would turn up.  After much deliberation we decided to walk.  It was described as an easy 7km.  This was true enough and I got to see the tops of the towers cloud free for the first time, very cool.  My legs were not amused at being made to walk after almost two days of sitting down, but I persuaded them to keep plodding.  Any vehicle that passed us kicked up a load of dust, not pleasant.  I was relieved when the hotel came into view, although it wasn't the most attractive building, it meant that the hostel was closer and I could put my bag down and have something to eat.  I stumbled across the American couples again, who were sitting on the grass outside the hostel drinking beer, having got the minibus.  They were impressed by my walking from the drop off.  I dropped my bag off in my room in the hostel and joined the Americans for dinner, I was not in the mood to sit on my own.

After dinner I was ready to go to bed, but it seemed too early at 6:30 to do so.  I was hoping to find people in the hostel to hang out with, but it seemed to have been taken over by rowdy Germans.  I decided to wander along to the hotel and see if their internet could be accessed so I could make contact with the outside world.  Several tries later I got online and sat in the hotel lobby in my scruffy clothes.  This wasted enough time so that I went to bed at a more acceptable hour.  However, the walls of the hostel were thin and the floors resounded to people coming back even later and getting up at silly o'clock.

Journey back to Chile

Sadly it was time to say goodbye to Heather and make my way down to the southern most city in the World, Punta Arenas. This time I stayed awake for the scenic bit of the bus journey out of Bariloche, but I'm not sure how well the pictures came out. At the border crossing into Chile my remaining nectarine got confiscated, which I was quite upset about, I was looking forward to it!  The one I managed to eat earlier was very tasty! Luckily they did not confiscate my empanadas. 

After a sniffer dog had checked everyones bags for wayward bits of fruit and veg, we were allowed to continue on our way. I think I slept for most of the rest of the journey.  Arriving in Puerto Montt bus station, I had a small hope that I would be able to catch a bus to get me to the airport in time for an earlier flight.  Therefore I started to get twitchy although there was nothing I could do! Arrived at the airport and joined the queue for check-in.  Queues don't seem to matter in Chile, I was overtaken by several people and things were going slowly. My lack of spanish did not help here either.  By the time I got to check in, 40 minutes later, chances for getting on the earlier flight were zero and I was exhausted already, which didn't help things.  After forking out for more overweight baggage costs I went and sat in the cafe.  I think I unnerved the guy serving me with my sniffling and blotchy red face, had been and cried in the bathroom to get the pent up stress of a day travelling out of my system!(Also becasue I wanted the company I had left behind to be with me). Such a waste of energy thinking I might get to Punta Arenas in the light, ah well.  Sat and had a beef and avocado sandwich and a cup of tea.  However, the tea with milk I ordered was not tea with milk, it was hot milk with a tea bag! A disappointing first attempt, but I managed to ask for some hot water and eventually I got that warm and comforting feeling a good cup of tea gives.  To while away the hours I played angry birds on my ipod and wrote in my diary. 

Eventually I decided to go through security and wander around the other side.  Very dull and boring.  I was very keen to get to Punta Arenas so I could sleep properly.  Pleased to get on the plane, not impressed by the cloud cover, was hoping to get some good pics of Patagonia as we flew over.  There was a sunset to take pictures of though.  Got the bus to Punta Arenas simple enough, although the address of the hostel seemed to confuse the driver but I got there eventually.  The door of the hostel was more difficult to find!  Hurrah for bed and sleep.  I had discovered that my phone was no longer where I kept it, I had probably left it on my bunk in Bariloche.  This was very frustrating as it is the only alarm that keeps me awake (and all the numbers etc that would be difficult to re-attain). Not a restful nights sleep, I did not want to miss the bus to Torres del Paine in the morning.

Final day in Argentina

A cold drizzly morning greeted us, very reminiscent of Scotland, as we got out of the tent ready to head back to 'civilization' mostly a shower and clean clothes!  It was a long walk out down the valley, from the map it looked flatish and not nearly as taxing as the day before, which was a relief as I don't think my legs could have coped. We stomped off, slowly to begin with, eased into the day's walk by a flat section interspersed with short steep sections (not appreciated).  We found a refugio guide wating for us at the first river crossing, which was reassuring as my legs were wobbly and balance was worse than usual!   Luckly there was also a rope strung across the river at shoulder height to hold on to.  After we crossed the guide sped off into the forest and we continued our plod, passed a guide and refugio dog coming in the oposite direction carrying wood (just the guide).  This must be good exercise as we were a fair distance away from the refugio. 

Steep switch-backs carried us quickly down the valley side, some slippy corners made it more speedy!  Continued stomping as legs woke up and felt the homeward call, chatting to Heather about GSC passed the time.  Still the bridge crossing that signalled half-way was a long time coming.  Very happy when it came into sight, all covered in mulit-colured flags, it was also lunch time, a good morale booster. Sat by the river and had crackers with cheese and peanuts, sadly the pitta bread had gone mouldy so that was a little dissapointing. The midges took this chance to have their lunch at the expense of my shoulder.  We continued along the path by the river enjoying the flat sections.  Navigation had gone out of the window by this time, since tributaries seemed to be more numerous than the map suggested, so it was a pleasant surprise when the path became a track and we came to the settlement at the end of it.  The settlement was more of a goat guarding hut, the goats were very cute but the 'Private Land' signs seemed to suggest the owners did not like visitors. 

At last we reached the road and had a well deserved sit down and munched the last of the cashews mixed with parmesan.  After a few unsucessful tries to hitch-hike we picked up our bags again and started to walk in the direction of Bariloche.  Happily a few minutes later a van stopped to give us a ride.  We sat in the back and got taken almost to the door of the hostel.  The owners of the van had invited us to dinner, which was very kind but we wouldn't have been good company and were at this point more interested in a shower!

I got to look at the damage the midges and buzzing flies had done to my shoulders, not a pretty sight.  The mosquitoes had left me with some good bites on my legs too.  Time to hang the tent up and wash some very smelly socks, although the rain did not allow for rapid drying, how inconsiderate.  The next task was food shopping for the long journey to Chile tomorrow and my first empanada (I kept calling them enchilladas, not the same thing at all).  Empanadas are a bit like pasties and very popular in Argentina.  They smelt and tasted very good and gave me a new burst of energy for packing.  Had to pack strategically so that I had everything for Torres del Paine in one bag, this took a while, but I was able to fit all I needed into my smallest bag!

Had to wake up a sleeping Heather so we could go out for dinner.  The decision of where to eat took a while, but in the end we were sold on the idea of curry and went to La Bomba, the bar where we met the auzzies on the first night in Bariloche.  I was told I had have a certain drink while still in Argentina, but I cannot remember the name, I think it begins with an 'f'.  It tasted very medicinal, but went down easily and almost straight to my head.  The curry was very tasty and spicy, which didn't go well with my sunburnt lips but I did my best to eat it all, unsucessfully.  Since it was my last night in Argentina the plan was to party the night away.  In an alternate universe where I was not half asleep this would have been a fantastic plan.  Heather chatted to some Argentinas while I looked on with a dazed expression on my face.  Got to bed eventually, sleep was not so easy due to chatty Swiss people in the dorm room who stopped shining torches around only after I snored.

Half way! (ish)

I've been away for a month and its almost halfway through the cruise (tomorrow).  We are about to cross some interesting regions of the Southern Atlantic where the ocean currents mingle and phytoplankton benefit.  The aim is to sample in the middle of an ocean eddy in the middle of the great calcite belt.  Hopefully there will be many happy coccolithophores living here, if the satellite image is anything to go by, assisting the export of organic carbon to the deep sea.  With any luck they will have formed aggregates (marine snow), which I can collect and photograph and then attempt to measure their sinking rate.  So far the sinking rate experiments have not been very successful, marine snow is easily lost in the blink of an eye and sinks faster than you would expect!  I caught a few particles in the most recent cast of the snow catcher, but not as much as in the first two casts, so I will be playing with them later. 

Its getting windier and colder, but the sun came out again today and improved the mood on board.